Xinomavro, an ancient Greek grape variety, is renowned for its complex bouquet, featuring notes of violets, dark fruits, tobacco, olive pulp, leather, robust tannins, and even stronger acidity. This grape is one of Greece’s greatest wine surprises, producing unforgettable red wines.
Xinomavro is notoriously difficult to cultivate and even harder to transform into high-quality wine. Its successful production hinges on a delicate balance of numerous factors, resulting in sophisticated wines that are often compared to esteemed Barolos and Nebbiolos.
The grapeโs home is Naousa in Greece, where the 14th Balkans International Wine Competition (BIWC) will be held in 2025, showcasing wines from the broader Balkan region.
Excellent price-quality ratio
Predominantly grown in northern Greece, Xinomavro thrives in a cooler climate compared to the rest of the country. This prestigious grape has been recognized since the 16th century, but the late 19th century brought devastation when phylloxera destroyed most vineyards in Greece, followed by a series of catastrophic wars that hindered the recovery of Greek vintners. It wasn’t until the 1950s and 60s that significant revitalization occurred, favoring international varieties at the expense of traditional ones. Yet, Xinomavro survived these challenges, remaining a dominant variety in northern Greece and one of the country’s four most significant grapes, alongside Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, and Moschofilero.
Predominantly grown in northern Greece, Xinomavro thrives in a cooler climate compared to the rest of the country. This prestigious grape has been recognized since the 16th century, but the late 19th century brought devastation when phylloxera destroyed most vineyards in Greece, followed by a series of catastrophic wars that hindered the recovery of Greek vintners. It wasn’t until the 1950s and 60s that significant revitalization occurred, favoring international varieties at the expense of traditional ones. Yet, Xinomavro survived these challenges, remaining a dominant variety in northern Greece and one of the country’s four most significant grapes, alongside Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, and Moschofilero.
The city of heroes: the ancient home of Xinomavro
The Naousa appellation, named after the city of heroes, carries significant historical weight for Greeks, having endured a tragic fate in the struggle against Ottoman conquerors. Today, this region is celebrated for its excellent ski resorts, delicious peaches, and wines produced by around 20 wineries. These wineries collaborate closely to promote their region, aspiring for Naousa to achieve a standalone designation of origin akin to Chianti Classico, with approval to label the names of its 13 sub-regions. The strength of this beloved wine region is further enhanced by the presence of the renowned Boutari winery, which was the first in Greece to bottle red wine in 1879.
In the Aminteo region, known for having Greece’s freshest climate, exceptional sparkling wines are crafted, perfectly aligned with the climatic factors that allow Xinomavro to produce outstanding, characterful sparkling wines. Here, historic Xinomavro vineyards over 90 years old are meticulously cared for by the esteemed Alpha Estate.
Goumenitsa, the northernmost of the three Xinomavro appellations in Macedonia, is the least known and the warmest. The appellation rules stipulate that Xinomavro must be vinified with at least 20% of the Negoska variety, resulting in wines of pronounced body and fruity character.
The only appellation outside Macedonia where Xinomavro is the dominant variety is Rapsani, set against the mythical backdrop of Mount Olympus. Wines from Rapsani must be crafted from three varieties: Krasato, Stavroto, and Xinomavro.
For many, the first association with Greek wines may be white varieties. However, Xinomavro, a powerful and historical grape, produces wines that invite contemplation, are affordably priced, and embody the exciting spirit of their homeland.
